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ped703
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Post subject: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:18 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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http://www.claymorepaintball.com/FileLi ... Manual.pdfJim Page 10 gives the trouble shooting, I can't remember if you still have the air on/off installed or if its pluged, either way those o-rings can still leak and air will come from under the solenoid it can also be from a couple of o-rings on the bolt the bolt sail (middle of the 3 on the bolt) or on the can (middle of the 3 on the can) the LPR is of the right type, I recommend changing all the o rings on the LPR first if your not ok with taking it out I'll do it at next training in August if you can't wait till then take it to lips, to set up the LPR turn the brass screw in (clockwise) till it stops then turn out (anti clockwise) 5 turns to roughly set the pressure to the right level, too high and it will blow out o rings in the bolt. the only thing wrong with your bolt is that the top hat is from a PMR (smaller diameter thread) Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:54 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Thankyou Ped. Maybe wait till the next training sesh as i dont wanna balls it up. Another thing i did notice though was in the DM7 Manual the 'cylinder' is different to the one we was using that today. As i said to you i have two 'Cylinders'. Having a browse around one looks like this from a BWING bolt. http://shop.dyepaintball.com/en_us/bill ... t-dm8.htmlAnd the other looks like the one in the manual. Cheers for all the effort today. Hopefully will resolve the problem and get it sorted.. Jim
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ped703
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:34 am |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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Jim
The Cylinder must be the one shown in the manual the BWING bolt can is for the DM8 only need to swap cans if used in a DM7 so make sure you bring all your bits next time.
Catch you later Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:02 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:17 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Ped after training i contacted the seller just to make him aware of the situation.
He Said
'it worked fine when it left me, and i have a friend (the team tech) who can back me up as it was him who took it apart, and was test fired before sending and it was fine. the only pmr part im aware of in the gun was a bolt o-ring as its the only one that i had spare but it worked fine. im contacting the previous owner about it and my mate. i would NEVER sell a non working gun or any equipment that doesnt work, and will do my best to find whats wrong. '
Then.
'if you could also take a picture of what bolt parts you mean and a more detailed description of the bolt parts and the leaks that would help, cheers '
Is it worth me keeping him updated or hanging on and trying to fix it ourselves.
Cheers
Jim
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ped703
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:27 am |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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Ok having had the night to think it over this is what I think is wrong (95% sure)
The marker was sent to you working but with the top hat damaged due to the striped threads, a replacement top hat was sent but for whatever reason its from a PM8(proto matrix 08) I think not a PMR(proto matrix rail) joey got me mixed up with the names
( I know its from a PM because the Diameter of the threaded part that screws into the cap is about 0.5mm smaller that's why it doesn't do up, I confirmed this by taking the cap from Joeys PM and it screwed onto the top hat you had perfectly, and the cap from your bolt screwed onto the top hat from my DM perfectly proving that your cap is ok.)
I suspect that the inner diameter of the top hat where the bolt passes through is slightly larger and gas is passing through to the sail on the bolt, which is why the bolt is shooting forward when it should retract, since the bolt is now out of sync with the solenoid gas is now venting back through the solenoid. ( I didn't have time to properly check this out using the bolt from joeys DM7 since dodge wanted us back on field, Now the reason why I took the LPR apart is a bad o ring on there as well as the sail and the can will result in air leaking from the solenoid but thats if its LPR air, what you've got is supply air, the air that shoots the ball getting through the top hat and onto the sail)
So with the right top hat it should work.
Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:31 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Ped DYE want £15.00 for a new tophat. That worth it?
Jim
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ped703
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:09 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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Jim
I can't find cheaper, have you tried Lips, otherwise £15 not a bad price
Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:50 am |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:27 am |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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I think you done it Ped. Tophat arrived this morning, put it in all seals nicely but bolt shoots foward when turning on air. Preety sure this is a easy problem to fix isnt it? Other than that i think were there! Cheers again Jim
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ped703
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 12:54 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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Jim, can you now turn down the reg pressure (thats the one you adjust for FPS turn clockwise I think) until the bolt no longer moves forward on its own, you can also roughly set the lPR reg too, wind it in until you start to feel resistance then wind out 4 1/2 turns if the air is still venting from around the solenoid trigger area, check that the small inner o ring on the top hat has'nt blown out. If still no change I'll have to stripout the air on / off plug thats just below the barrel at the front as that when it leaks also vents air from the same area.
Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Jim -
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 11:15 am |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:51 pm Posts: 16
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Ped.
Managed to do the first bit you told me and the bolt no longer moves on its own when aired up.
Absolutely no air is leaking though everything seems sealed nicely, but still not firing.
Jim
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ped703
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:18 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:26 pm Posts: 169 Location: Perivale Middlesex
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Ok Thats good, now do the second bit and set up the lpr cause thats the bit that controls the pressure to move the bolt if it still don't move after thats been set it might mean the solenoid got stuck.
Ped
_________________ "......Shoot him Pete...Shoot him......"
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Scott Owen
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:44 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:09 am Posts: 126
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I know to Solve all your problems! BUY AN EGO!!!Scotty... 
_________________ You Can't See Me... 
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its Dodgy
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Post subject: Re: Jim DM7 Manual Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:50 pm |
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:58 pm Posts: 1505
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Scott your not being helpful
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